Replacing salicylic acid is one of the current challenges in cosmetic formulation. Between exfoliating and anti-imperfection efficacy, antimicrobial preservation, skin tolerance and regulatory compliance, finding an alternative that performs as well and is better accepted by the skin is a real challenge.
Identified in the product sheet for the latest launch of the FENTY SKIN brand in the COSMETIKWATCH® database : Betaine salicylate (INCI=Betaine salicylate) appears to be an interesting alternative to salicylic acid. It results from the combination of betaine and salicylic acid. Betaine, also known as trimethylglycine, is a sugar beet derivative renowned for its moisturising properties and its ability to maintain cell moisture balance.
Here's the information we've gathered about its efficacy and safety compared with salicylic acid:
Efficacy
Betaine salicylate is a milder, less irritating form of salicylic acid. It is generally used in a concentration of 4-10%, but it is estimated that 4% betaine salicylate is equivalent to around 2% salicylic acid in terms of efficacy.
Tolerance
Betaine salicylate, thanks to the moisturising effect of betaine, is gentler and better tolerated. It is therefore better suited to sensitive skin or people who do not tolerate pure salicylic acid.
The good news is that one of Spec-Chem Industry's commercial references is COSMOS-approved (100% CPAI)!
Does this give you any ideas for future developments?
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